How to vacuum your pool
In a number of circumstances, it is necessary to employ the manual method of vacuuming to remove heavy sediment or mud from pool water - this is when the automatic pool cleaner is incapable of handling the load. To vacuum by this method the following equipment is required:
What you need:
◾Long pool pole
◾Long corrugated plastic hose
◾8 Wheel manual sweeper
◾Remove the automatic pool cleaner from the pool.
◾Attach the vacuum sweeper to one end of the pool pole.
◾Attach the plastic hose to the vacuum sweeper.
◾Without agitating mud or sediment at the bottom of the pool, slowly place the pool pole, attached sweeper and plastic hose in the deep end of the pool.
◾Carry the other end of the vacuum hose over into the weir flap and attach loosely into weir inlet.
◾Lift the end of the vacuum hose slightly above the weir inlet for about 30 seconds, pressure will be regained. When the air has been removed, reattach the vacuum hose to weir inlet. Repeat if necessary.
◾While vacuuming, the multiport valve should be operated in the Waste position.
◾Top up pool to correct water level after vacuuming.
Start up Stabilisation Process
Because chlorine can dissipate under the ultraviolet rays of strong sunlight, chemicals should always be added in the early evening so that the job of disinfecting the pool is accomplished overnight. Night-time addition of chlorine allows more effective use of the chlorine for oxidising and disinfecting.
Chlorine loss can be reduced by stabilising pool water with cyanuric acid (pool stabiliser).
In a pool treated exclusively with correct chemicals, the initial dosage of cyanuric acid (pool stabiliser) should be between 40 - 60ppm.
When using a stabilised monthly floater or stabilised pills, the start-up dosage should be 30 ppm. Stabilised floaters and pills deposit a residual of cyanuric acid in the pool water which gradually build up and if not checked, can reach an unacceptable level.
◾Remove the automatic pool cleaner. Backwash and then rinse the filter thoroughly.
◾Adjust the pH to 7.2.
◾In the evening, shock treat the pool by adding the products recommended by Swimpool Centre. Run the filter continuously for 12 hours.
◾Mix the required amount of stabiliser in a clean plastic bucket. Usually, 1kg of stabiliser in a 50 000 litre pool will raise the stabiliser level by 20ppm.
◾Pour the slurry into the weir and run the filter for at least 12 hours.
◾Check and correct the pH to 7.2.
◾Reconnect the automatic pool cleaner.
◾Thereafter continue with normal filtration and chlorination programme.
◾Although cyanuric acid is totally soluble, it is very slow dissolving and because of poor solubility, some product may settle on the filter media. Do not backwash for at least 48 hours. If you backwash before product dissolves, you may lose some of the product.
◾Pool stabiliser added in the recommended quantities, is sufficient for a whole season. Splash-out and backwashing will reduce its concentration, so a check should be made at the beginning of each season.
◾If you intend using one of the stabilised products as a sanitiser, at start-up, raise the cyanuric acid level to 30ppm because these products add cyanuric acid to the water as they dissolve.
◾To ensure that the water does not become overstabilised, always backwash for an extra minute or two. When replacement water is added it will dilute the concentration of the cyanuric acid. Therefore, test the cyanuric acid level at least twice a season.
◾The chlorine residual level must be maintained at a slightly higher level i.e. between 1.5 - 3.0 ppm if using stabilised products. The pool water should, therefore, be shock treated every 7 - 10 days during the summer months.
How to drain your pool
This is a very tricky process and must be carried out with care.
Do not start the procedure and leave it unattended.
- Switch the motor off and disconnect the head of the automatic pool cleaner from the pipes.
- Place a hose in the weir to ensure that the level of the water never drops below the weir.
- Attach a brick or weight to the other end of the hose and position it at the bottom of the pool in the deep end. If you use a brick, place it in a plastic bag otherwise it may damage the pool floor.
- Turn the time switch to “Manual” or “Override” to ensure that it does not switch off during draining.
- Switch the valve to Waste. Switch the pump on to commence draining. Place your garden hose into the weir and turn the tap on. It is important to keep the weir full of water during the draining process to ensure that no air gets sucked into the pump. Running the pump continuously without water will lead to burn out and overheating will destroy the pump seal.
- If you lose vacuum at the pump i.e. no water is being pumped out, it means that the pump is drawing air from the weir. Switch off the motor - remake the joint on the hose connection into the weir, prime the pump with water and keep running until the pool is emptied to the desired level.
Pool Water Testing
This is a quick reference guide to swimming pool water
testing. For a more detailed pool testing result, please visit
|Chlorine||Test strips||Daily testing advised||Chlorine|
|DPD tablets/ drops||At least weekly|
|pH||Test strips||Daily testing advised||pH+, alkali|
|Phenol red tablets/ drops||At least weekly||pH-, acid|
|Total alkalinity||Test strips||Weekly is advised||Alk Up|
|Tablet count||At least monthly||pH-, acid|
|Hardness : Calcium||Test strips||Weekly is advised||Calcium chloride|
|Titration||At least monthly||Calcium chelating agents|
|Conditioner||Turbidity||Weekly is advised||Cyanuric acid|
|Test strips||At least monthly|
|Total Dissolved Solids||Electronic - conductivity||Weekly is advised||---|
|At least monthly|